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'Las Olvidadas' Old Vine País & San Francisco 2019 De Martino Old Vine Series

£39

Attractively fascinating, leafy, peppery aromas greet the nose, before you step down into to the cellar, where a deep trove of earth, tar and yeast extract awaits.  The palate impression is almost entirely textural:  surpassingly soft and harmonious, it has supremely silky tannins, and acidity which is at once fresh and understated.  Complete, satisfying and with surpassing elegance, this is as beautifully-balanced as it is intriguing.  ‘Las Olvidadas’, or ‘The Forgotten’ refers to the 2,507 venerable vines, aged between 100 and 300 years, whose meagre yields make this wine.  It is a field blend of around 80% País and 20% San Francisco—DNA testing has shown the latter variety to be a crossing of País and Moscatel.

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